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HipChick

(25,485 posts)
Thu Jan 9, 2014, 08:50 PM Jan 2014

Helpless Female car question..

Any mechanics in DU house tonight?

So my car won't start..lights come on, but engine won't turn over...it has been sitting for a few weeks,as I'd been on travel...I started it yesterday, and just drove it around the block and back? Any ideas?
I was going to whip out the battery tomorrow and see if I can charge it..

34 replies = new reply since forum marked as read
Highlight: NoneDon't highlight anything 5 newestHighlight 5 most recent replies
Helpless Female car question.. (Original Post) HipChick Jan 2014 OP
Sounds like your basic dead battery... TreasonousBastard Jan 2014 #1
Thanks...I try that.. HipChick Jan 2014 #2
My dad used to mess around with jumper cables and weak batteries. gvstn Jan 2014 #9
How old is the battery? LeftyMom Jan 2014 #3
It's not that old...but its been sitting for about 4 weeks.. HipChick Jan 2014 #7
If you don't have a charger take it over to the auto parts store and let them do it. LeftyMom Jan 2014 #11
also check if any corrosion/acid build-up on battery posts.... lastlib Jan 2014 #33
A battery can have enough juice to turn on lights, but not to start a car. If you get it started, uppityperson Jan 2014 #4
is there a clicking noise when you try to start it, if so i would say your battery is dead loli phabay Jan 2014 #5
Yes...there is a clicking noise when I try to start HipChick Jan 2014 #6
i would guess its your battery that died, get it charged and i would still get autozone to check it loli phabay Jan 2014 #8
i don't have anywhere to be tomorrow.. HipChick Jan 2014 #10
Classic dead battery Major Nikon Jan 2014 #14
Voltmeter? HipChick Jan 2014 #15
Some cars have them in the gauge set Major Nikon Jan 2014 #17
Interesting I've never seen this before. Nt. Locut0s Jan 2014 #18
(it's the one upper-right--shows 9....14....19) n/t lastlib Jan 2014 #34
Its a tool for measuring the voltage output of a device... Locut0s Jan 2014 #20
I just put petrol in the car and it goes... HipChick Jan 2014 #22
You probably don't need one... Locut0s Jan 2014 #23
Real handy, cheap.That one will do all you need Mopar151 Jan 2014 #25
how can u tell your car is female? leftyohiolib Jan 2014 #12
I'm guessing she can tell noamnety Jan 2014 #13
That's right a smart car and its never wrong.. HipChick Jan 2014 #16
The car bra might be another tipoff pinboy3niner Jan 2014 #27
Lol! I could not find the car battery... HipChick Jan 2014 #32
I agree that it sounds like a battery problem. Do you have AAA? Orrex Jan 2014 #19
I don't today.. HipChick Jan 2014 #21
check your auto insurance Sherman A1 Jan 2014 #28
A complex system, with many f*&$^ things to go wrong Mopar151 Jan 2014 #24
Link to article Mopar151 Jan 2014 #29
Can you clarify something? Populist_Prole Jan 2014 #26
I once had a dirty cam shaft position sensor jakeXT Jan 2014 #30
In addition to the things others have said mythology Jan 2014 #31

TreasonousBastard

(43,049 posts)
1. Sounds like your basic dead battery...
Thu Jan 9, 2014, 08:59 PM
Jan 2014

can you get a jump from someone? Have a long enough extension cord to let the charger sit under the hood for a few hours?

Starting and driving around the block won't charge the battery and might use up its last electrons. About a half hour on the road would give it a decent charge.

You may find the battery is now junk and have to get a new one. Or just get one anyway. Personally, there were times when I felt safer having a $50 spare battery and some jumper cables in the trunk-- you never know...

edit spelling

gvstn

(2,805 posts)
9. My dad used to mess around with jumper cables and weak batteries.
Thu Jan 9, 2014, 09:32 PM
Jan 2014

When I started driving and found out new batteries are in the $50-75 range--I just resolved to replace the battery the first time the car wouldn't start. Not worth the trouble of playing around with an older battery and never knowing when you would get stuck. PepBoys always has good prices on batteries. They aren't rated the best but I usually get 5 years or so out of them.

If your battery is over 5 years you should consider replacing as someone else said--the cold weather can finish off a weak battery so that it may no longer retain its full charge. If it is newer than that, a couple weeks of sitting could drain it and charging it may be all you need. Since the car started yesterday it seems like purely a battery/charge problem.

LeftyMom

(49,212 posts)
3. How old is the battery?
Thu Jan 9, 2014, 09:10 PM
Jan 2014

It probably just needs charged because it's been sitting, but extreme weather tends to finish off batteries that were on their way out, so if it's more than a couple years old I would probably just replace it.

LeftyMom

(49,212 posts)
11. If you don't have a charger take it over to the auto parts store and let them do it.
Thu Jan 9, 2014, 09:37 PM
Jan 2014

It should take about an hour and they'll be able to tell you if it's not taking a charge well and needs replaced.

It's a bit odd that it fired up yesterday but won't today, since it sat before that. I know this is a bit obvious but have you checked the terminals to make sure the connections are tight? Is there any chance you left a light on after you drove the car yesterday?

lastlib

(23,220 posts)
33. also check if any corrosion/acid build-up on battery posts....
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 10:26 AM
Jan 2014

...which might prevent a good contact.

(Coca-Cola is good for cleaning battery acid off your posts......)

uppityperson

(115,677 posts)
4. A battery can have enough juice to turn on lights, but not to start a car. If you get it started,
Thu Jan 9, 2014, 09:20 PM
Jan 2014

driving it for a while, or just letting it run, should charge up the battery if the battery is still good. Batteries age and eventually do not want to store so they need replacing.

If you can get it jump started and let it run for 15 min or so, the battery should charge if it is still able to.

Or take it to a autoparts store and have them check it for you. If it is bad, then you are there and can buy a new one.

 

loli phabay

(5,580 posts)
5. is there a clicking noise when you try to start it, if so i would say your battery is dead
Thu Jan 9, 2014, 09:24 PM
Jan 2014

i have this happen to me regularly when i park and forget to turn of my radios, four days later i climb in and all i get is click click click. also see if your remote open lock works, if there is power in your battery it should still work if not then most likely its your battery.

 

loli phabay

(5,580 posts)
8. i would guess its your battery that died, get it charged and i would still get autozone to check it
Thu Jan 9, 2014, 09:32 PM
Jan 2014

i know tomorrow i need to jumpstart mine, luckily once it starts it runs non stop twelve hours so its okay for the next few hours.

Major Nikon

(36,827 posts)
14. Classic dead battery
Thu Jan 9, 2014, 11:06 PM
Jan 2014

Sounds like one of the cells went bad. If you have a voltmeter you can put it across the terminals and if it's around 10v or less you have a dead cell. It should be 12v or more. If you can manage to get it started take it somewhere to have it checked because sometimes with a good charge you can still get it started with a dead cell, but the problem will come back.

Locut0s

(6,154 posts)
20. Its a tool for measuring the voltage output of a device...
Thu Jan 9, 2014, 11:27 PM
Jan 2014

It will tell you how much voltage the battery is outputting.

More common would probably by a multimeter like this



Which have a lot of other functions but can test voltage too.

Locut0s

(6,154 posts)
23. You probably don't need one...
Thu Jan 9, 2014, 11:53 PM
Jan 2014

I'm the same as you. Gas goes in car, car goes from A to B, done. I've never been a car guy like so many of my peers. Computer hardware and other gadgets are my thing The only reason I know about volt meters and multi meters is I'm quite interested in electronics which is where they are primarily used. Unless you are looking at getting into electronics or electrical wiring I would say you don't need one.

Mopar151

(9,982 posts)
25. Real handy, cheap.That one will do all you need
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 12:31 AM
Jan 2014

Even has the low ohm scale that lets you test out alternator components, were you so inclined. I've done them for my buddies by streetlight, drunk - we found the offending diode, ?somebody??? found a part by morning, made the call for first round!

Orrex

(63,203 posts)
19. I agree that it sounds like a battery problem. Do you have AAA?
Thu Jan 9, 2014, 11:25 PM
Jan 2014

We had to make use of their services earlier in the week when our new/used car wouldn't start. The battery was dead beyond the reach of modern science, but the were able to give me a jump and get me started. In the absence of someone close by with a set of jumper cables, they might be a good way to go.

Sherman A1

(38,958 posts)
28. check your auto insurance
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 05:03 AM
Jan 2014

some have a road side assist thing with the policy. I have used mine a couple times over the years and they take awhile, but it's free (of sorts).

Mopar151

(9,982 posts)
24. A complex system, with many f*&$^ things to go wrong
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 12:20 AM
Jan 2014

There's no need to take the battery out to charge it, if you can get power to where the car is.

Disassemble &Clean the battery terminals. You need to see shiny metal at the current path. There are nifty cleaning gadgets, but a jacknife or a small wire brush will do. if there is a white, cruddy mess around the terminal, get rid of it - if it touches your clothes, tho, it'll eat a hole in them (except for wool - battery salesmen often wear sweaters!) If you can find where the battery cables connect at the other end, make sure they are tight and undamaged. Dirty terminals will also prevent the alternator from charging the battery - seen it on a months-old car.

Voltmeter tests: Need 12 V+ across the terminals of a somewhat charged battery, less and it's junk.
If the meter reads less than 10.5 volts across the battery while cranking, it's discharged. If it has been charged and fails - junk.
Quickie charging system test: With the engine running at a fast idle or above, voltage across the battery should be 13.5 +. Apply a load to the system, by turning lights, heater blower, rear defrost, etc. -at the same fast idle or above - and it should maintain a similar voltage. GM spec, when I was Mr. Goodwrench, was 13,8 to 14.2 volts. if it goes over 15 volts, it'll cook the battery, pop light bulbs, etc.

Lead-acid batteries will lose about 1% of their charge per day, with nothing connected to them. Many newer cars will have a small "draw" on the battery to maintain electronic memories and the like - but a small light bulb, left connected for a long time, will kill one deader than a smelt!
The chemical reaction that makes batteries work is temperature sensetive - 10 degrees will make a significant difference! I've gotten cars to start by warming the battery with an incadescent light bulb for a few hours. This may have to do with why your car rolled "snake eyes".

Finally - those stupid little $1 felt washers they sell in the battery dept REALLY WORK to keep terrminals from crudding up. Avoid the use of jumper cables if you can - they have several nasty failure modes when used improperly - as most folks do.

Populist_Prole

(5,364 posts)
26. Can you clarify something?
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 03:03 AM
Jan 2014

You say, "The lights turn on". Did you turn them on to see if your battery has any juice, or do they come on automatically when you turn the key to on? Like many cars with DRL ( daytime running lights ) do.

If you turned them on, let me ask you this: If when you turn the key to the start position, do the lights dim noticeably, or do they stay as they were? If they don't dim it's an open in starting circuit. If they do dim it's a battery issue...the easier of the 2 to solve.

 

mythology

(9,527 posts)
31. In addition to the things others have said
Fri Jan 10, 2014, 08:42 AM
Jan 2014

it could also be a bad starter if jumping/replacing the battery doesn't work.

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