Ecuador: The Avenue Of The Volcancoes
Ecuador: The Avenue Of The Volcancoes
This article was first published in Singletrack Issue 106.
Cass journeys across Ecuador, the magical land of volcanoes and ancient history, finding singletrack, crater lakes and the part of the Earth closest to the sun.
WORDS and PICTURES by Cass Gilbert
At the turn of the 19th century, the intrepid Prussian naturalist and explorer Friedrich Wilhelm Heinrich Alexander von Humboldt set out on a pioneering journey across the Americas. Aside from compiling a shelf full of scientific tomes on his adventures, Humboldt also coined the phrase ‘the Avenue of the Volcanoes’ en route, in reference to Ecuador’s particularly eruptive geology. Running for hundreds of miles along two Andean cordilleras, it’s a geological thoroughfare containing no less than seven volcanic peaks that tower over 5,000 metres high, out of which protrude the majority of mainland Ecuador’s 30-odd volcanoes.
Ever the sucker for themed rides, following in Humboldt’s footprints and connecting three of the country’s most iconic examples seemed like an appropriate reason for a multi-day bikepack; an Ecuadorian Three Peaks Challenge, of sorts. We’d patch together whatever singletrack we could find, with the aim of retracing ancient foot and horse trails fast forgotten in the country’s rush for modernisation. Similarly, we’d avoid paved roads at all costs – and we’d do our best not to get lost in the high altitude páramos, Ecuador’s lush, boggy, misty and enigmatic tundra – a Dartmoorian landscape, perched at a lung-depleting 4,000m.
As for the group, it was a somewhat eclectic band. My own travels favour a laid-back and exploratory nature, peppered with picnics and afternoon naps. Alex, on the other hand, was a veritable speedster from the States, who pitted himself against the clock in 24-hour races, a string of podiums to his name. And then there was mellow Vince, who was visiting family in Quito; back in Texas, he works for Chumba bikes, so it was only natural that he’d brought with him a company-issue 29+ bikepacking rig. Just as importantly, given Alex’s thoroughbred credentials, I was glad to see Vince had tempered any notion of a race pace with his collection of art supplies. While I delight in stopping to take photos, Vince packs a sketchbook – a perfect excuse for a break if ever I saw
Our ride began in Cotopaxi National Park, just a 90-minute drive south of Quito down the Pan-American Highway. It centres around its namesake, Volcán Cotopaxi, the second loftiest peak in the nation at 5,897m. Revered as a holy mountain by indigenous communities, Cotopaxi’s perfect conical shape is a sight to behold. Should it deign to reveal itself, that is. Which it chose not to do on this occasion, treating us only to a few moments of its alluring beauty before absconding behind a veil of cloud.
More:
http://singletrackworld.com/2016/09/ecuador-the-avenue-of-the-volcancoes/
Environment & Energy:
http://www.democraticunderground.com/1127105016
