Gun Control & RKBA
In reply to the discussion: Why Military Security Experts Know That Arming All Troops Is Not the Answer [View all]Eleanors38
(18,318 posts)1). Measure the reach of the new plug to ascertain that it is roughly equivalent with the old plug; that is, the distances from the beveled shouldersto the outside (negative-ground) electrodes are the same.
2). If possible, wipe the plug hole threads clean with a cloth. If a large accumulation of dirt/debris is present around the plugs, blow and clean this away BEFORE plug removal.
3). After removal of plugs, gap all new plugs to proper specs. If you drop one, check for damage. Reject the plug if the white insulator is cracked. Be sure to re-check gap.
4). Hand install using the plug socket wrench only -- no handles or other attachments. This will assure no cross-threading.
5). Use appropriate attachments and a "flex head" ratchet to keep the plug/socket assembly as close to perpendicular with the ratchet as possible. I've found tiny <1" extensions are far more valuable than some uncontrollable u-joint or wobbly.
6). CRITICALLY, tighten the washerless plug no more than 1/16 of a turn from where it bottoms. (Older washered plugs called for 1/8 of a turn to compress the washer.) Going beyond this turn will result in a cracked plug, an inevitable missfire and plug replacement. The effort you put into "tightening" a washerless plug is quite minimal.
NOTE: Some Ford models have a difficult and expensive procedure which is easily and expensively botched by home mechanics. Let the pros handle this.