especially the babies. Their gut gets inflamed very easily, and most wild orphaned baby rabbits die within a few days of getting solid food from humans from diarrhea due to a messed-up balance of gut flora. I used to have several house rabbits, and actually belonged to the House Rabbit Society as dues-paying member until I lost my last bun to old age, so I know a good deal about this topic. My advice, for what it's worth:
1. Re-nest if humanly possible. Without Mom, the baby will almost assuredly die. If that is simply not possible, read on.
2. Warmth is essential--but not *too* much. The baby needs to stay comfortably warm in order to avoid shock. Rabbits go into shock easily--it doesn't take much. A fright or stress can kill a rabbit. I made a homemade incubator out of a cardboard box lined with a mixture of timothy and alfalfa hay (both are available at pet stores, and aren't expensive) in which I made a small "nest", and placed a soft clean baby washcloth inside the nest for extra warmth and easy cleaning. The heat source I used was one of those "handwarmers" that hunters buy, activated and stuffed inside of a glass baby food jar (the larger "stage 3" kind). The glass mellows and distributes the heat, and the bunny can cuddle up to the jar when it needs heat, and move away when it needs to cool down. You can also find instructions online for making an easy incubator for baby chicks, which will also work fine for bunnies, so long as you make a "nest" inside.
3. Don't feed it anything right away--let it settle in and calm down first. The first day's worth of feedings should be formula (recipe below) diluted 50% with warmed Pedialyte.
Formula: 1 part KMR, 1 part Esbilac, 2 drops heavy cream, 2 parts *boiled* water, and a drop or two of liquid human children's vitamins for good measure. Also, get some Bene-Bac (
http://www.jefferspet.com/ssc/product.asp?CID=0&pf_id=4157) and start giving this when they baby starts eating solid food. It comes it a gel form that tastes good to buns, and it helps keep your bunny's digestive flora healthy and normal. It is absolutely *essential* to sterilize the baby bottle/syringe/eyedropper and your hands before feeding, because the introduction of foreign bacteria can easily and quickly kill the baby.
Baby rabbits who aren't weaned only eat once or twice a day, usually at dawn and dusk, BUT rabbit mother's milk is also very different from formula--it takes a lot longer to digest, and is more nutritious, so the babies need less of it. When feeding formula, unweaned babies with closed eyes should be fed about every 2-4 hours, open-eyed babies about every 6 hours (but they take more with each feeding). The most important thing is to keep an eye on its tummy--you'll know the baby has had enough when its tummy is rounded but not "firm", and you'll know it needs to be fed again if its tummy has lost its "roundness". If it's still closed-eyed, then after feeding, you need to take a warm damp cotton ball and wipe its rear end to stimulate it to go pee and poop. If its eyes are open, it should be able to eliminate on its own--but check and make sure.
4. I know that a lot of people disagree about this, but I'm going to tell you anyway, because in my personal experience with baby wild buns, this seems to increase the odds of survival: comfort the baby a bit by letting it sniff you, petting it, letting it sleep in your hand, etc. BEFORE trying to feed it anything but plain water. I know that this is a big no-no for most wild baby animals, but getting familiar and comfortable with your touch/scent before ingestion of food seems to help stave off stress-induced gastroenteritis. Yes, it breaks the "Thou shalt not familiarize a wild animal with humans" rule, but it also slightly increases the odds of survival in my experience.
4. Many rehabbers will tell you to release the baby when its eyes are open and it's eating solid food reliably. I vehemently disagree with this. The bunny needs time to acclimate itself to "being outside"--time to develop a proper fear of predators and humans other than yourself, time to get its internal temperature regulatory system functioning properly for the time of year, time to adjust to eating only the things it can find in the wild (greenery, etc.)--releasing without helping the bunny adjust to these things will just mean that your hard work will likely have been for nothing.
To release, get a standard, large-sized rabbit cage for your newly-weaned bunny and start introducing greens slowly--make sure you do an internet search first for safe rabbit greens, as there are some that are unhealthy/toxic for buns. Don't give any more alfalfa hay, but let your bunny have lots and lots of timothy/grass hay (all it wants) and about a cup of alfalfa pellets--changed daily. The brand I used for years (for both pellets and hay) was Oxbow, which I *highly* recommend. Don't handle/pet the rabbit at all anymore. Put the cage outside in a shaded area (like a covered porch) every day for a few hours, to give the bunny time to get used to what "real" weather is like, but don't let cats or dogs get near the cage, because you don't want the bunny to lose its fear of predators, and the safety of the cage can indeed make it lose this fear if the predators come near but can't get to it. Considering the time of year, the bun should be old enough and strong enough to release sometime toward the end of June, middle of July (depending on how old your baby is).
If you have any specific questions, feel free to PM me at any time. Remember, most baby wild cottontails will not survive away from Mom, so don't be hard on yourself if yours doesn't make it. :hug: