|
But if you HAVE to do it the honest way, you won't get anything decent by biking standards new at that price. Really depends on what you mean by "laughed at." When I first got back into cycling 15 years or so ago, all I could afford was a Sears mountain bike. No one laughed to my face, and I road it a lot more miles than you're talking about. It held up well, aside from the seat breaking when a car ran over it (kickstands--don't trust them) for just about a year, and then everything started breaking. Bearings went out, gears stopped shifting... All stuff I could work on, but even the adjustments stopped working. A pedal snapped off, the tube (forget the name of it, but where the handle bar goes through) warped... Finally the bearings in the bottom bracket locked up on me on a long (for me, anyway--50 miles) ride, and I bought a new bike. I still use the Gary Fisher I bought to replace it.
Point is, don't worry about ego, worry about getting on a bike and riding. Bike riding should emphasize the riding, not the bike. Whatever you get will work for a while, and then when you get a better bike you can marvel (as I did) at how much difference a couple hundred makes.
The suggestions about used bikes are good ones, especially the part about checking smaller bike stores. I would add to be very careful on Craigslist. There are a ton of stolen bikes there. Be very careful of adds that say "I have ten bikes I'm selling for my cousin, and I don't know anything about this, but here's a brand new bike for $20. They've busted a few bike rings that will steal bikes by the trailer in one city, drive halfway across country to another popular biking city, and list the bikes a few at a time on CL for really cheap prices. On the other hand, there are good bikes there all the time. Just use the same common sense that has you click "TRASH" when you get something from the Barrister Whatever from a small African or Asian nation.
Things to figure out to save you time. First, figure out what kind of bike you want. There are racers and roads and mountains and hybrids and urbans and stuff I don't even know anymore. If you are just commuting, for instance, don't waste time on racers with clips and skinny tires or mountains with monster-truck shocks. Don't fine-tune it too much, though. Whether you get a hybrid with shocks stretched for road riding or an stiff-fork urban with a slightly shorter tube for traffic-dodging won't matter a great deal unless you are going to live on it. Second, figure out what size you need. That's not something to fixate on, either, unless you're going to do more than commute, but you want the size within the appropriate basic small-medium-large range.
Third, get a good frame first, components second, and wheels last, if you have a choice between a couple of models. You can always add or replace components, and you will replace tires, but the frame is forever.
Anyway, you can ignore all that and go to a decent local bike store and they can just point and say "That one," and they are probably right. But it helps to have some idea.
Anyway, those are my brief tips. Sorry, when it comes to choosing bikes (and a few other items) I get real OCD. :)
Oh, one more thing. Google your city for a cycling club or two, then go to their web site and look for classifieds. Mostly you'll get $2000 bikes listed as "sacrifices" with lots of proper nouns describing parts even most cyclists can't recognize, but sometimes you'll get someone dumping their starter bike for a one of those $2K bikes with lots of proper nouns for components. The good thing about such places is that it's harder to sneak a stolen bike in without someone getting suspicious.
Again, sorry I talk so much. :)
|